Cantina Do Mori
by Wendy VanHatten
When it’s time to travel to Italy again, check this place out.
No chairs…just a few stools. No tables…just a long wooden bar and some upturned wine barrels. Dozens of antique copper pots hang from the dark, wooden ceiling. Tour groups wander in…but don’t stay for even one glass. Locals stop at the same time each day…and the bartender never asks what they want.
Warm and cozy, this original bacaro has been catering to the workers of the Rialto Market, tourists, and even supposedly Casanova since 1462. Like so many things in Venice, it’s not easy to find. Even with a map. It’s tucked in an alley way between Ruga Vecchia, San Giovanni, and Calle Arco. Got that?
It’s definitely worth double checking the alleyways to find it. Or, stop and ask a shop keeper.
Stop in mid-morning and you’ll find a group of older, local men gathering here for their glass of vino. The bartender knows what each of them drinks. He even knows to pour mostly water into one guy’s glass and top it off with a little wine. They visit with each other and then with anyone who looks friendly. It doesn’t matter that your Italian is not good and their English is almost non-existent. You can still have a conversation.
Stop in the afternoon for cicchetti, crostini, or salami with your glass of young white wine or prosecco. Not sure which bar snack you want? Ask the bartender. His recommendations are right on. If it’s lunchtime, try one of the tramezzini, crustless, oversized sandwiches with your glass of red wine. Chances are, you’ll meet the same group of men from the morning, in for their afternoon glass. They’ll remember you and start the conversation where they left off.
It’s just the thing to do.
IF YOU Go: Cantina Do Mori is located at Calle dei Do Mori, 429 San Polo Venezia.